Local
Customs
Argentina is without a doubt, the most European country in Latin
America. This is due to the massive immigration of Europeans that
began in the late 19th Century. The population is concentrated
in the city of Buenos Aires where at least 12 million people reside.
People from the City are known as Portenos, due to the fact that
Buenos Aires began as a port and their language is full of colorful
slang and expressions that make them instantly recognized when
they travel to other parts of the country and world. The rest
of the country, all 2,766,889km2 of it, houses the remaining two-thirds
of Argentina’s 36 million people.
Argentines are open affectionate people who generally greet each
other with a kiss on the cheek, including people that they are
meeting for the first time. Men also greet each other with a kiss
although sometimes with a shake of the hand for the first meeting.
At the end of the meeting, it is also polite to give another kiss
on the cheek.
The national drink is “Mate”, which deserves a chapter
all to itself. Briefly, mate is similar to tea. The Mate is the
gourd in which the “yerba” is placed, hot water is
added and the drink is consumed through a metal straw. “Mate”
is a social drink as people pass the gourd from one person to
the next. The “Yerba” is grown in the northeastern
parts of the country in the provinces of Misiones and Corrientes.
Argentines speak Spanish, more correctly called “Castellano”.
The language here is slightly different from the one spoken in
Spain. Instead of “Tu”, Argentines use “Vos”
and the double L is pronounced SH. The vocabulary in Buenos Aires
is distinct and the colorful slang used here is known as “Lunfardo”
which developed during the early Tango era of the city. Spanish
from Spain is completely understood and it is also quite common
to meet people eager to practice their English, the second language
of Argentina.
Buenos Aires is full of opportunities for those interested in
leisure activities. You may choose between tango, theatres of
an international level as well as local acts and traditional fiestas
distinctive to each province.
Those wishing to take photographs should not have any particular
problems as long as they are taken in a respectful manner. When
visiting the indigenous communities, you should always consult
your guide. The incredible views at Iguazu Falls, the high plains
in the Northwest, the whales in the Valdes Peninsula, as well
as the western Andes and Patagonia offer spectacular opportunities
for photography which draw photographers from all over the world.
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Health, Climate,
and Clothing
Argentina, especially in the regions that we visit, is free from
any endemic diseases that require specific vaccinations. Unlike
most of the rest of Latin America, the tap water is drinkable
throughout most of the country. In areas without clean tap water,
you will be advised in advance and drinking water will be made
available.
Argentina is located in the Southern Hemisphere meaning that the
seasons are opposite to those of the Northern Hemisphere. Therefore,
the summer period in the Northern Hemisphere is the winter period
in Argentina.
The winters in Buenos Aires are moderate while the summers can
be very hot and humid. The Province of Misiones is located in
the subtropical region of the country and therefore the climate
is hot and humid from December to March and it never gets much
colder that 25 degrees. In the Northwest, the temperature varies
greatly according to altitude and ranges from hot in the valleys
to quite cold in the higher mountain altitudes. Traveling south
through the country, the climate becomes consistently cooler reaching
below zero in the glacial areas and Tierra del Fuego in the wintertime.
High winds and cool temperatures are the norm all along the Atlantic
Coast, although temperatures are much higher in the months of
November to March.
Clothing varies according to your destination and the time of
year. In the North, light sporty clothing is recommended while
thicker clothing is required in the South. In general, you should
bring a light jacket, good hiking shoes, a fleece, a hat, a scarf,
sporty clothing and appropriate city clothes. It is also a good
idea to have an outfit for going out in Buenos Aires as it is
a very fashionable city. We also recommend sunscreen and sunglasses.
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Security
While in Buenos Aires, we recommend that you take the same precautions
that you would take in any other large city, especially when carrying
cameras or cash.
The most important advice is that you use radio taxis whenever
going out at night and that you take them directly from the place
that you wish to leave. You should not walk through quiet streets
or areas nor should you enter slum areas. Always ask advice from
a trusted local before going to a new place.
Having said the above, Buenos Aires is still quite a safe city
and those taking the above precautions should have a wonderful,
crime-free trip.
Where
We Sleep
The types of accommodation vary greatly depending on the destination.
The preferred kinds of lodging include: staying with local families,
“hosterias” (small hotels which are often run by a
family), farmhouses, mountain hostels and sometimes we may camp.
The hotels are generally of the small and family run type and
we can not always guarantee a double room with private bathroom.
In some circumstances you will share a room up to four people.
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What
We Eat
Argentina is most famous for its delicious beef, which is eaten
in many different ways, from barbecue to stews. Due to the fact
that the country has a high percentage of people of European descent,
one will find croissants for breakfast, breaded chicken and meat
sandwiches for lunch (milanesas) and great pasta for dinner. Ice
cream is also of a very high quality and is comparable to the
best in the world. A distinctly Argentine sweet treat is “Dulce
de Leche”, similar to caramel but infinitely better, especially
in Ice Cream!
The meals that you will eat are typical Argentine dishes and vary
according to the region that you choose to visit. Everywhere you
will find “Asado” (a delicious mix of Argentine beef
cooked on a charcoal barbecue), empanadas and “tartas”
(pies filled with eggs and vegetables). In the Province of Missiones,
the people eat a great deal of “Dorado” and “Surubi”,
two types of fish caught in the local rivers. In the Northeastern
region, the people of Salta and Jujuy have a diet typical to the
Andean region consisting of a corn base mixed with a variety of
local recipes. In the Valdes Peninsula, an abundance of seafood
and fresh fish dominate the local diet. In Patagonia, the most
famous and popular dish is lamb, slow-roasted over charcoal and
incredibly succulent. Buenos Aires offers a wide variety of excellent
international cuisine, with delicious fresh pastas and of course,
the “parilla” or barbecue appearing on nearly every
menu.
How
We Move Around
Internal travel is conducted by airplane or by bus. The trips
by air are generally about 2-3 hours while those in bus can take
as long as 12 hours, depending on the destination.
The buses are of a high quality and offer seats that recline to
between 160 and 180 degrees. They have bathrooms on board and
televisions to keep you occupied. Dinner and breakfast are also
served, although unfortunately the quality is about the same as
an airplane meal!
For those traveling to more isolated regions with rugged terrain,
the use of a 4x4 is necessary. For Buenos Aires and the surrounding
areas, traveling is usually done in vans, buses, metro or taxi.
We recommend the use of Radio Taxies for those keen on experiencing
on their own the wonderful variety of nightlife that Buenos Aires
has to offer.
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An Outline of the
History and Geography of Argentina
Argentina is a country of great diversity and contrast characterized
by incredible natural resources, vast unexplored areas, and large
urban centers. Argentina’s scenery and climate are as varied
as the cultures produced by the multiple ethnic groups who were
its ancient inhabitants and by the people who immigrated from
different European countries from the 16th to the 20th century
- the result being a heterogeneous population marked by nostalgia
and vitality.
The first Spaniards who arrived in this Southern part of South
America during the 16th century soon crossed with the indigenous
inhabitants giving rise to a melting of different races, even
more so as these local people already belonged to different ethnic
groups. The Quechuas were peaceful and industrious; the Diaguites
proved to be great warriors; the Guaranies were more flexible.
Each native group had its own particular culture, Mapuches, Tehuelches,
Huarpes, Comechingones, Charrúas, Pueños, Matacos,
Wichis etc., some were farmers while others were nomads.
At the time of the Spanish arrival, local cultures and economies
were most uneven in terms of development. It was certainly not
where nature was the kindest that civilizations had reached the
highest degree of development. In Argentina’s Northern Andes,
the Quechuas had gained a dominant position a century before the
Spanish conquest. Natives practiced intensive agriculture in the
arid Puna, located in the Argentine Northwest, while llamas were
reared in Argentina’s Central Andes. The Guarani living
in Argentine Mesopotamia were farmers, but did not engage in any
intensive farming. While the inhabitants of the fertile coast
of the River Plate were nomads with no knowledge of any agricultural
activity whatsoever, and made their living out of hunting (guanacos
and deer) and fishing.
During colonial times, the Spaniards dismally failed in their
attempt to transform the natives' economy. The nomads in the Pampas
preferred fighting to the death over becoming growers under the
Spaniards' domination. The native way of thinking in the Pampas
soon pervaded the spirit of European settlers. Dating from colonial
times, crop farming was considered unworthy not only by indigenous
people, but also by the mestizos (white and indigenous half cast)
and the whites.
The concept of a border appeared with the first foreign settlers
as there was a clear boundary separating the Spanish settlements
from the land of free natives. The permanent redefinition of the
borders of the indigenous people's lands (at first in the very
neighborhood of the city of Buenos Aires) played a significant
role in the development of the cultural landscape. Until the 19th
century, no significant foreign trespassing into the indigenous
territories occurred. The introduction of new plants and animals
(cattle and horses) produced an ecological transformation and
led to the disappearance of the local guanaco and ñandu,
reaching its climax by the end of the colonial period. Not only
had the flora and fauna in the Pampas suffered an absolute change
but so had the local communities. The Spaniards had become the
owners of the best areas on the banks of the River Plate and the
Parana River, while the natives were doomed to making a living
exclusively out of hunting. This situation obligated them to wander
through vast territories and live in isolation. It was during
this period that horses became the key manner of long distance
travel.
The introduction of the horse had an immense impact on the native
way of life and within a very short period of time, the peoples
of the Pampas and Eastern Patagonia started making their living
out of animal breeding. As a result, the natives soon created
very close relationships with their horses. This led them to develop
their own horse taming method - a method that stresses the importance
of patience, persuasion and a non-aggressive rapport between man
and horse.
The physical composition of the inhabitants of the Pampas also
changed. The Spanish men had children with native women. In turn,
native males snatched away white women and children to add them
to their tribes. The physical features of the gaucho (half cast
between an American native and a European) born in the conquered
territory and those of the mestizo, born in the land of the free
natives, began to resemble one another. The Spaniards tried to
dominate the indigenous people by peaceful means by offering them
a place to live in exchange for food. As a result some "free
natives" settled down in the ranches or estancias (territories
then managed by the Spaniards and mostly engaged in cattle rearing).
Not only did they stop their attacks on the Spaniards but they
also acted as defenders of the newly adopted Spanish territory
from the natives who had not agreed to the deal. The first Spanish
settlers in the vast lands outside Buenos Aires used to build
their house and plant a few trees around it to provide shade,
a layout still utilized in modern estancias. The ranch owner and
the gaucho began living together, establishing an owner-employee
relationship which still continues to this day.
No matter how few they are at present, the gauchos will always
have an important place in Argentine folklore and history for
their resistance, courage and sensitiveness. Martín Fierro
by José Hernández, a book that describes the spirit
of the gaucho at its best, is a mandatory read for every Argentine.
At present, the gaucho mostly live from cattle rearing and leather
goods production. Argentine ranches continue to be mainly engaged
in cattle farming. Some estancias, particularly in the Provinces
of Cordoba and Buenos Aires and in Patagonia, have opened their
doors to tourists. They offer accommodation in the “casco”
(the main house), typical meals, and sometimes, participation
in typical ranch activities.
Since the Spanish conquest, the Argentine territory has been home
to many natives, mestizos and Europeans who have fought for freedom
and integration beyond ethnic diversity. Courageous tribal chiefs
and various characters of multiple origins were fiercely opposed
to the greed and lust for power stirred up in the Americas. One
such man was San Martín, a mestizo born in the area of
the Jesuit missions and an acknowledged freedom fighter in South
America. Another important figure in the social history of the
country was Güemes, a gaucho ranch owner who became a leader
of freedom movements and a defender of the rights of the weak
while being hated by his conservative peers. Other important figures
include Mariano Moreno, an intellectual and writer of “Las
Bases”, whose ideas were used for the creation of the Republic
of Argentina and many others.
Mass immigration began in the late 19th century from European
countries such as Germany, Italy, Spain, France and Poland, to
name a few. Hundreds of Europeans began to arrive in search of
land that could provide them with new opportunities and the possibility
of development. Accept for the Province of Mendoza, where many
newcomers engaged in the same sort of activity that they had in
Europe (wine production), most chose to settle in the Province
of Buenos Aires. The last Indian Border in Southern Argentina
was cruelly snatched away from the native people in the late 19th
century.
Mass immigration continued well into the 20th century, particularly
in the aftermath of the two world wars. These immigrants sought
to stay together and to keep to their native traditions. In the
city of Buenos Aires there are neighborhoods with strong immigrant
populations, such as La Boca with its Italian immigrants from
Genoa who fiercely stick to their traditions. Some German communities
settled in the Provinces of Entre Ríos and Cordoba. The
Polish settled mostly in the Province of Misiones, and the Welsh
in Patagonia. The immigrants arriving at the port of Buenos Aires
gave rise to the tango, a popular musical expression and a fusion
of rhythms and melodies, coupled to a nostalgia for the lost past
and the energetic pace imposed by change.
The economic, social and political circumstances of 2002 have
led many Argentines of Spanish, Italian and other European roots
to seek “new opportunities” in the countries of birth
of their ancestors. Argentina is witnessing a “return”
migration movement, but its implications remain to be seen.
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